Payment & Shipping Terms:
|Product Name:||Bolt-down Fuse||Current Value:||200A(35-500A)|
|Voltage:||80V DC||Body Material:||Plastic/Ceramic|
|Metal:||Brass/Copper With Gold Plating.||Standard:||DIN 43560/1|
Heavy Duty 200A Automotive Bolt-on Bolt-down Fuse 80V dc For Electric Forklift Battery Charger Pallet Truck Golf Cart
White ANL 800V 250A Auto Fuse Bolt-on FUSE / Ceramic Fuse 81*22 mm
Use for: Electric forklift /Battery charger /Pallet/ Stacker /Golf cars
Product Size(LxWxH):81x22x10 mm
Insulating body: Ceramic
Power Rating: 200 amps
Ultimate circuit protection
High conductivity plating
Maximum current transfer
Designed to fit ANL fuse holders
Operating range 35A to 425A, at 80Vd.c. max.
Fast fixing with heavy duty fuse base
|For High Performance ANT And High Power Audio Systems. Also Use Lift Trucks And Other Battery Operated System.|
|Metal Element||Brass/Copper With Gold Plating.|
|Part Number||Ampere (A)|
Opening Time / Pre-arcing Time: 24 ℃
offering a bolt-on space saving fuse for high current wiring protection and provides time delay characteristics
|3600 s||-||-||60 s||0.8 s||10 s||0.2 s||2 s|
Recommend ANL Bolt-on Fuse Holder
Other Automotive Limiter / Bolt-on Fuses
How to Test a Fuse
Most of us have experienced a blown fuse at one time or another and simply replaced it. Some fuses, though, aren't cheap and if a replacement isn't handy it means a trip to the auto parts or home improvement store. As a professional electrician I have had to test many fuses over the years; it is a standard part of troubleshooting techniques rather than simply replacing fuses that I don't know for sure are blown.
Better to test a fuse first to see if it is actually blown before making a special trip to purchase and install a new one. Testing a fuse to see if it is actually blown is a very simple task, requiring a minimum of inexpensive tools, and can save both money and time.
A fuse is basically a small piece of wire inside a special housing that is designed to burn in half when an electrical overload is present. All we have to do is determine if that wire is still intact. Some fuses have a small window where the wire can be seen but the view is generally poor, the wire is often very small and mistakes can be made. A 30 second test is foolproof and will tell the tale with no possibility of error.
At it simplest, a fuse tester is nothing more that a a device to check for continuity. It may be in the form of a multimeter, a continuity tester, or a dedicated fuse tester.
In all cases, though, the idea is to send a small current through the fuse; if it passes through the fuse the fuse is good. If it does not the fuse is blown and needs replacement. This means that a battery is necessary to provide that small current and every fuse tester will have a battery in it.
If a tester shows that a fuse is blown, the next step is to check the tester. This is accomplished by touching the test leads together or, in the case of testers without leads, to put a piece of metal (wire, coin, dinner spoon, anything metal) across the probes. If it does not indicate "good" the battery probably needs replacing.
Continuity testers will have two test leads and a small light that will light up if the leads are touched together. To test a fuse simply touch one lead to each of the electrical contacts on the fuse; if the light bulb lights up the fuse is good.
A multimeter again has two leads just like a continuity tester. However, there are many settings on a multimeter to measure amperage, voltage and resistance in several different ranges. Some multimeters are autoranging (no need to choose a range), some are digital and some are analog meters with a needle to indicate the reading. With all multimeters the first step is to set it to measure resistance, or Ω. If different ranges are available, choose the lowest range (K means thousand on the dial, so 2K equals 2000) - usually around 200. Like a continuity tester, touch one probe to each contact on a fuse and observe the reading. A very low reading of 1 ohm or less means the fuse is good; if it is blown the reading will be infinite, or the maximum the meter will display. An intermediate reading of several ohms probably means you aren't making good contact; wriggle the probes on the fuse contacts or clean them and try again.
In general, these testers will have a light that lights up if the fuse is good. There will always be some method to touch a probe of some kind to each contact on the fuse. Make sure to read and follow the manufacturers instructions with dedicated testers as different fuse testers may operate differently.
The fusible link is generally visible inside the fuse and it is sometimes easy to see if the fuse is blown. As a double check, though, it never hurts to actually check with a meter to see if it is actually good or not - a fuse that appeared to be good recently cost me several hours trying to diagnose a problem when all that was wrong was a blown fuse.
The two blades that were inserted into the fuse box are the contacts. Touch a probe to each of these contacts to verify if the fuse is good or blown.
Mini blade fuses use the same procedure; they are simply smaller while retaining the same basic construction.
Testing an automotive ATC blade fuse. The light in the center of the tester is lit, indicating a good fuse.